What does style have to do with “asset management”?
Friday, August 27, 2010
Quite a bit--if you think of your face and body as such! Yet- (and I agree)--"The idea that fashion is one long promenade around the contours of the body,alighting on various erogenous zones,has taken a beating in this new millennium. The focus has been so eveidently on legs--in brief skirts,tight pants,shorts, and leggings--that the old age notion of an alternating sexual focus seems to have been abandoned". the lament goes on in this article (Talk-Crosscurrents-fall fashion issue) by Suzy Menkes.
The idea of "womanliness" was last in full bloom in the fifties (think Brigit Bardot, Sophia Loren, and Gina Lollobrigida), and I, as a budding fashionista/costume designer/stylist went down to the lower east side of Manhattan to buy fabric for my grandmother to fashion (no patterns--just from my sketches) suits that were inspired by Dior.
Years after (circa 1997) I designed a dress for a lovely, red headed and very curvaceous client. I was again inspired--this time by the iconic photo of Picasso weilding an umbrella to protect Francois Gilot on the beach from the sun's rays. She wore what seemed to be an ankle length, simple sleeveless linen dress, tied somehow (could not see the back) at her waist. The dress I made was brown linen, square necked and sleeveless, had a true waistline, and a full fkirt to the upper ankle. Worn with Native American jewelry ( with any distinctive adornment) this was an amazing look.
So flash forward to this fall 2010 fashion scene and we see a glimmer of the same influence. Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada, at Louis Vuiton, and Christopher Kane (a new Scottish designer) --we are beginning to see the womanly shape reasserting itsellf --in a fresh new way.
“Six Easy Pieces”, shopping diet is all about less-is-more.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
As a style consultant I believe it's my job to be the arbiter of worthwhile purchases. "To buy,or not to buy?" that is the question. At the start, all my clients need a core wardrobe which includes a variety of accessories ( bags and shoes). But after several years of perfecting and adding to the original "six easy pieces" (it's really more like 20 ) with lots more detail (jewelry etc) we always reach a point when we recognize that we are now acquiring beautiful things for the sheer fun of it , for the thrill of having something new (and hopefully different from anything else already own), to replace something that may be out-of-style in fit or look...and "yes!"..I can go on and on with reasons to continue shopping. In fact some people's closets are so crowded that they can only remember their newest purchases . Why? Because they haven't taken the time to constantly purge, reassess, and always try on their new purchases immediately at home in front of a full length mirror--and make sure they integrate and can be mixed with other pieces in the closet.
But again--like with a food nutrition diet --it helps to take stock occasionallly of the really nutritious foods (clothing you need and actually wear!) and pair down before adding. The shopping "diet" described in a recent article in Thursday Styles (NY Times) calls for a detox exercise for those who overindulged without the all important self monitoring (or good proffessional oversight).
I believe the six piece diet is about the core wardrobe I start every client with. Those simple, essential, classically oriented pieces can mix easily-- I start with a neutral palette to make it easier and instantly more sophisticated. The pieces could easily define a "uniform" for you-- if that's what it takes to make life easier and more fluid. The same principals work for men as well as women.
As people age this ease becomes even more important--what are your modern, ageless "easy" pieces?
...seem to be a perfect match. Once she embarks on her eastern travels Julia Roberts gets to wear an assortment of ethnically inspired wardrobe and accessories from around the globe. There's also a photo of Ms Gilbert in this Sunday NY Times wearing a gray T- top and cropped Indian silk pants (the article mis-identifies them as "capri"). She just opened a huge warehouse store of Southeastern Asia curios in New Jersey. My ex-flight attendant "real" person/model, Stefanie (a very adventurous person as well) appeared in "Forever Cool", modeling several looks by Dosa (one of my favorite resources) that fits the personality of any woman who practices yoga, meditation--desires easy comfort-- and aspires to create a unique creative look for herself.
Admittedly I may be the only woman on earth who didn't read "Eat, Pray, Love". So this weekend I convinced my husband to see this "chic flick" in eager hope of enjoying the bestseller in film form.
But-sorry to say--I (and less surprisingly my husband) were very disappointed (after all--the newspaper reviews I read were good!). Although Julia Roberts played Ms Gilbert well, and Javier Bardem was excellent as her future husband, Jose Nunes--the script was about as cliche as could be ---as were the silly supporting characters. The last thing I expected was to squirm in my chair and yawn with boredom. Here's a review I should have read earlier.
Many women look well in skirts-- but better in pants.They tend to be more comfortable than skirts too. A pant can enhance the figure by lengthening your legs (bootleg, especially worn with a high heel or platform shoe), by lengthening your torso (because most women are short waisted choose a comfortable lower rise beneath your waistline), diminishing your thigh/hip breadth (choose a slim fit at hip/thigh), and by either concealing or exposing your ankles (are your ankles lovely?). If you have great hips and thighs consider pants that emphasize your lower body by choosing a pant with eye catching pattern, color, fabrication and style. Pants that blurr the line between slacks and leggings (slim leg) provide an opportunity for wearing lots of layers on top. With the exception of those ladies possessing great height and willowy figures--it's best to avoid front pleats, cuffs, or high waists (or even at the waist).
For fall you can expect a wide range of styles--so the onus is on you to pick wisely ( right fit, the best quality you can afford, appropriate) and stylishly ( mix-match and versatility potential, modern design).
Did the style gene skip a generation in the Rodham family?
Thursday, August 5, 2010
It may have--although surely it's Hillary that we see most often and therefore have an idea about her need for better style guidance (wish I had her ear!).
So much has been written about Chelsea's wedding---and I've stayed away--feeling that l-ov-e is and should remain the main focus of any wedding. But one of my readers asked for my opinion, and so here goes.
The new bride looked lovely in the romantic Vera Wang dress (they are almost always a great choice) and I particularly loved her simple hairstyle (too many brides over do that on their special day). Her grandmom looked simple and chic in her gray dress.
However Hillary instead of opting for a garish over-styled "princess--meets mother of the bride" look, that faintly reminded me of Scarlett O'Hara in "Gone With the Wind"--would have been better served with a measure of chic simplicity. The dress by Oscar de la Renta required a tall, willowy woman. I am a big fan of de la Renta's highly embellished and often ethnically inspired work--but his designs would have not been my first choice for her. Remember that beautiful Vogue photo spread when she sat at the piano in a lovely white shirt and long black skirt (think Carolina Herrera)?
I’ve had a love-hate relationship with French notions, products, politics and philosophy…
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
...so I never give carte blanc to French style either. But after perusing the article "Ageing Gracefully, The French Way" recently,--I had to consider if I unknowingly inherited some French genes. The article mentions women like Leslie Caron (whom I admired on the screen so long ago), and quotes her philosophy as being typical-- Ann M. Morrison writes-
"The No. 1 response to my informal survey of Frenchwomen about the years of magical aging is not gaining weight. Ever. If a Frenchwoman happens to see an additional kilogram or two on her bathroom scale, she will do whatever is necessary to force the needle back where it belongs. "I keep my weight steady, no ups and downs," Ms. Caron said. "I avoid all excess." She claims to eat all kinds of food in small - her friends say minuscule - portions, and she doesn't drink alcohol. It's not so much that "French Women Don't Get Fat," as the title of Mireille Guiliano's best seller had it. Rather, Frenchwomen won't get fat.
Not that they exercise. When my husband and I arrived in Paris and asked our personal banker - everyone has one - for a gym recommendation, her response was: "Why? Gyms are a form of torture." It seems the only acceptable way to burn calories is to walk."
It's my favorite form too. It's not a bad philosophy to stress "form" (your shape)--but not so sure that "function" (your health) and one's body tone, is taken into account here.
At any rate--lotions and potions seem to abound in a Frenchwoman's bathroom/dressing table --and therein she places much hope and investment. She is also vain (and that's good!) enough to start young and keep it up through old age.They also have an innate understanding that looking "natural" (no matter how you get there) is the goal for aging gracefully (something I've reiterated often). "As for makeup, Frenchwomen of almost every age (except those teenagers) regard less as best. Heavy foundation has a tendency to emphasize wrinkles and pores, and most women avoid it in favor of a bit of blush. Those who do use foundation make sure that it blends with the skin, often by applying it just after moisturizing. The idea is to look as natural as possible: a little color on the eyelids, mascara, maybe a bit of eyeliner and lip gloss."
I think of Charlotte Rampling and Francois Hardy as good examples. (See their younger/older selves below)
French women have also been credited with great personal style--and although it's not universally true of them--they have a favorable percentage rate.
..in her new movie "I Am Love". Tilda who leads an unconventional life, has always taken unconventional roles, and this movie she co-produced as well. I've admired her individuality and beauty since I first saw her in "Orlando" a fim by Sally Potter. "I Am Love " is not a great movie, except by visual standards. You my reader, may already intuited that I would have gladly included it in the "Get Inspired" chapters of my 2 books--where I discuss the importance of noticing every visual detail in certain movies--in order to hone your "eye".
I'm a big fan of a classic "core" and in this movie the lead character, Emma (Tilda) wears clothes that totally exemplify quality, simplicity, and a gorgeous sense of color (i.e. that casual, ageless look of a pale blue shirt, orange pants with luggage colored accessories!).
Marisa Berenson, who stars as Allegra Recchi, is dressed opulently, wears a boat load of heavy make-up, and in my opinion (in addition to joining the Joan Rivers club of too much of everything-- and "you can't be skinny enough" look) she tends to look matronly. I wonder if at the wardrobe (the plastic surgery is her own) was purposely intended to contrast her with Emma's lovely freshly-scrubbed looks?.
"The wonderful Antonella Cannarozzi, who's our costume designer, designed the entire collusion of all the wardrobe," said Swinton. "But we did work with two fashion houses -- the house of Fendi dressed the men and also provided extraordinary furs for Marisa.
"But the Emma character was dressed entirely by Jil Sander. Raf Simons and his team created an entire wardrobe -- that's something that classic cinema used to do quite regularly, if you think about the relationship between Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn or Saint Laurent and Catherine Deneuve. Or even in old Hollywood, if you think of Adrian dressing Garbo or Katharine Hepburn."
Yes "those were the days" and it's heartening to see it still can happen.
There’s nothing like a new look to lift the spirit!
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Francesca's (Francie) makeover is now fully documented at Fab Over Fifty !
I get many letters and often read how difficult it is for plus-sized gals. It's true that there is not enough out there--that's simple, good quality, and affordable in larger sizes. But these items exist--and in this case I weeded (and that's the word for it because I knew what I was searching for) them out of Salon Z at Saks Fifth Ave. I wanted to show that Francie at 5'2" and still losing weight can look great in her transition--without spending her bottom dollar. The key was simplicity! The items I picked were simple, and not overly-designed, cute-sy or fussy.
Like my real life plus sized "model"--Ife in "Steal This Style" (--she's on the cover in a white shirt, black slacks and a black cardigan slung over her shoulders) I put Francie in solids (no patterns to break up her figure) and items that could easily mix and match with later additions. Every piece fit her well without being too big or too tight.
The colors I chose (white, tan, navy, taupe, apple green, a touch of orange and silver/gold) -- I believe-- complimented her --and are great colors to build a summer palette around.
The most trendy items were the skinny jeans-- which worked because Francie's leg was camouflaged at her mid-thigh and upwards--- and the sweater. Part of good style is knowing what to emphasize and what to hide.The apple-green asymmetrical sweater did the job.
Sara at FOF was generous and effusive in thanking me--here's her note:
"Hi Sherrie, Just wanted to take the time to thank you for participating in the makeover with Francesca, and FabOverFifty. You did an excellent job. You're professional, truly have an eye for style and a hard-working perfectionist. All the hard work really showed... the before/after is jaw-dropping, our FOF community loves the story and the fashion tips. I also know that we changed Francesca's life - she will be forever grateful! You were beyond delightful to work with and I hope we can work together for future stories!"
“Who wears short shorts?” or rather who should wear short shorts?
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
That timely question was recently addressed by iVillage to style experts.
Due to the incredible heat and humidity lately--I've envied every gal who could still wear the most abbreviated variety--and do so appropriately. But alas, I'm of the age where I need to summon self discipline and good judgement-- and find cool clothing that serves me well these summer days.
Here are some of the points I made in answer to the query. I think shorts are great for hot weather--but the appropriateness factor looms large.
Age and physique are both important . A very young woman can get away with shorties (short shorts)-- Still there is a point of indecency (lending new meaning to the British term "cheeky"!) and I would think certainly some realistic self censure should apply if her figure benefits from less exposure rather than more.
The older woman needs to consider her figure and leg shape too --but even if they are still as good as in her young years her skin needs to be equally youthful. She can wear bermudas (merely a longer short), or my favorite-- very modern "city shorts" ( just above knee, and very closely tailored to the thigh)--especially if she has shapely, calves and ankles. You'll see all sorts of high heels paired with these as street fashion and in ads (too tacky!) ---but I feel thongs, ballerina flats, and driving mocs are a great pairing with shorts--and will endure.
All women, of any age can wear cropped or ankle pants--but they put emphasis on the ankle and exposed foot--so it behooves the wearer to at least have shapely ankles . This style foreshortens the leg so ladies with shorter legs would benefit from a platform or wedge style sandal --to create the illusion of a longer leg. This pant style is also the least youthful (an exception is the cropped cargo version or once "rolled at the cuff" look which is fun) so the choice of shoe is important as it puts emphasis on the foot and can make a critical stylish difference. The onus is on the wearer to choose a shoe that's comfortable (not orthopedic in appearance) and hip. I prefer platforms as mentioned, a wedge sandal, simple flats (thongs, ballerina styles, mocs), or kitten heels with cropped or ankle pants.
The word "office" often implies/conjures dress code and propriety. Any type of physical over -exposure (shorts included) is not "OK". The cropped/ankle style is probably admissible for "dress-down Fridays". Having said that--of course there are multitudes of jobs that are casual in definition and personality (non"office")--that would easily include and even demand the comfort of longer shorts (Bermudas,etc).
For years I wanted to stage my mother/daughter philosophy at J Crew stores..
Friday, June 25, 2010
Before Michelle O ever donned a J Crew garment I was prodding my clients to give it "a chance!".
I still surprise clients with the possibilities. When I was a 20 something there was no such animal--I mean style at a great pricepoint. Today it exists (and I don't mean H&M or Topshop)--I mean J Crew. Now that I'm a sixty-something I have a place I can relate to as I would have at 20. The recent article in the WSJ made me wish I had nine lives to perhaps join their team as well.
But corporations, who already enjoy great success sometimes don't see possibilities beyond their office doors (I couldn't interest them in my mom/daughter events based on "Steal This Style"). It would be great if Mickey Wexler, or Jenna read my blog (do you agree?). A girl can dream....
The versatility of leggings give you many stylish options.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
They make easy packing for travel and their ability to be a pant substitute can make for easy, comfortable dressing as well (providing you have the right long top that covers what needs to be skimmed over). I was recently interviewed for an upcoming comprehensive article on leggings--and was asked if leggings are here to stay. I unequivocally answered "yes! they are a wardrobe staple in one form or another." For the summer, in lighter weaves they can strategically cover less than wonderful legs, or highlight shapely legs--depending on their length, cling, and fabrication. I used to think only "girly" types after 50--like Vera Wang could adopt them. But today there are so many great tops that work with leggings (I mentioned in an earlier blog that the trench style with black leggings and ballerina flats is almost a uniform for young ladies in NYC--but could be appropriate for all ages).
After 50 I prefer to see leggings only with flats--it looks chicer. The exception are black leggings worn as tights/stocking substitutes with skirts or dresses. Those have an ageless appeal that works well with high heels as well.
Leggings for the winter can do double-duty in keeping you warm. I love them in black, charcoal, varieties of medium gray, variety of tan/taupe, and brown. Here are some good looks from very sporty (and perhaps in need of layering or longer tops depending on your age/figure and leg shape in consideration).
I also want women to know that very slim line pants can effect the "legging" look and proportion.
If you feel leggings are not for you--consider wearing very slim pants or jeans with a loose/longer top for the same goal.
..and comfortable? Could that be? Absolutely--in fact I've already touched on a few items in recent blogs. Traveling recently in Europe I began to think about past trips. I tried to analyze why today there seems to be "fashion" for the young only (80s regurgitated) and obviously stodgier styles for those older. Interestingly in the days of Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O the lines between young and old were not so strictly drawn--certainly not as defined as today's. That's why I love classics that endure and even thrive as "fashion" today. They are the true "bridge" lines (in style and often in price too!).
It delighted me to see that one of my "poster children" , Tonne Goodman, longtime Vogue editor--received this year's CFDA award. The NY Observer said, "Caroline Kennedy arrived to give the Eleanor Lambert award to Vogue's fashion director Tonne Goodman. "I'm here because I've idolized Tonne Goodman since I was 12 years old," said Ms. Kennedy, who attended school in New York with the editor when they were children. "You might wonder why her style has not rubbed off on me in all that time." Ms. Kennedy informed the audience that Ms. Goodman was the only person in their high-school yearbook to choose brown as her favorite color."
I think Caroline was being modest. She certainly has also a classically inspired fashion in her wardrobe and appreciates the style inheritance she received--a gift from her mom, and the times she lived in.
Tods (Tonne's favorite shoe), Chanel and J Crew all produced their versions of the classic Sperry topsider this year. Espadrilles too are very hot again as are certain patent Bikenstocks. RayBan's Wayfarer and Aviator styles have influenced Oliver Peoples, Ralph Lauren, Chloe, Tom Ford and Paul Smith to create their versions.The St James sailor stripe shirt is walking out of J Crew and Calypso. The button down shirt was reimagined at Boy (Band of Outsiders) as werel lightweight plaid shirts (I love the blue check or yellow check with white jeans) at J Crew or Rag and Bone. The chambray shirt is also enjoying a comeback.
