Below is a perfect example of having your cake and eating it too--from JCrew. The jacket is elaborate and "dressy" in spirit and attention-getting "wow scale". But as you can see--the model is very natural --not much visible make-up (the look is very young, but an older gal can have that natural look with just a free but less messed up hairstyle).The jeans and denim shirt all contribute to the wonderful balance that I've referred to as the "ying-yang" ideal in style.
The colors could have been "kitchy" but because the denim borrows from/and tones the jacket's coloful pastel palette (notice the pale blue)--it now looks just right. Had this jacket been coupled with black jeans or black slacks --all it's beauty would have disappeared.
Summertime is a great time to indulge in ethnic style!
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
As much as I love understated looks-- often minimilist and in a neutral palette for the winter (and year 'round actually)-- somehow when summer comes I love to break loose with a style that allows for great creativity, interesting colorplay, individualism, and when "more is more". This year the talented designer Dries Van Noten had an exceptional collection. I wish I could own every piece. His choice of fabrics, colors and pattern (and the way it's all mixed) is pure artistry. Here are some examples from the runway. Understand that if these combinations are more than you can chew--just pick a special piece and combine it with something simple (white or dark blue jeans? White T-shirt) and perhaps add an ethic accessory-- a great bag, a gladiator sandal, ethically inspired (nothing kitchy please!) or authentic necklace, earrings or/and a stack of great bracelets to the colorful mix. Wow!
...sometime in the late 70s, I believe, the fashion industry became insecure. Madison Ave always was a street thermometer --always at the heels of the "latest" (what seems to succeed NOW!) --and the combination of the 2 co-dependent industries became doubly insecure. At that point designers no longer set style--they began to look at the streets for their inspiration and confirmation of their creativity. Youth culture took hold. Punk, and ultimately Rap influenced designers--and today anything goes.
Sandra writes-
"I know. I'm not sure if this trend will ever end. Similarly I see young men and old ones trying to emulate gangsters with the baggy pants and sweats. And the big pants and accessories have become main stream.I remember when a fashion trend would last six months and then people would move on. Of course classics always stayed in; but I think advertisers and fashion business folks decided they could make more money with junk; less outlay of cash for products and bigger profit margins. Anyway, it's a complex issue; but it does affect the greater society. What many think started off in the lower class now crosses over to greater society."
My answer has to be- "True!". And the boomer generation was caught in this crossroads (as well as their parents). With styles from the 80s returning --they have less than ever to choose from. It is a complex issue. To demistify it --I attempted, in my books, to show what looks and items are worth the purchase.
Lucky for too many--the "fashion police" is merely a media fabrication. But admittedly as I sat in a NYC subway today, I was astonished at how inured society is to bad taste. I seemed to be the only one who gazed at the half naked woman (in her early 40s perhaps and at least 200 lbs). She lazily sipped her drink and was oblivious to my stare. She was wearing a black bra that left 5" of voluptuous cleavage exposed. A black spandex dress sausaged what could not be contained. Upon exiting at 50th and 7th--low and behold was another vision-- that srely tempted fate. A gal circa 38 years old was happily, if not steadily, walked aside me. She too was somewhere near 200 lbs, 5'6'' tall. She wore cotton knit sheath that was so tight her belly button depression showed (as did the seams of her underwear and every unintended curve to her body). She plodded on in 5" high heels and her toes extended way forward beyond the shoe --scraping the sidewalk (ouch?). To this ensemble she added a bright red leather bag. As we stopped for a light to change, I noticed just one lady in business attire giving her a look and shook her head. The business woman noticed me also looking and we began to smile at each other--caught in a NY moment.
But as we all crossed the avenue I followed the eyes of others. Especially the guys. After all-- this gal was dressed for them. I expected them to at least notice--but not a single double take ensued from any dude--just a few unconscious glances from ladies who passed her by.
I take this in and can only conclude--that dressing well is something you do for yourself. Society, or at least a good part of it---will rarely take note one way or the other. I wish they did--do you?
PS- Had these 2 gals been slimmer, older or younger--the look of being inappropriate is the same .
Sandra had a question about accessories that I wanted to share with you…
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Hi Sherrie, I have been looking through "Steal This Style", and reading some of the posts about accessories and I have a question. I notice in your book that some accessories such as scarves, earrings and rings were kept to a minimum and accessories such as necklaces and bracelets were recommended using the style of "chunking" or layering. Could you comment on this on your blog? I have several scarves and costume jewelry which includes earrings and I'm wondering if I should clear these out of my style wardrobe: could it be that these accessories are more trendy than classic in your opinion. Thank you for your thoughts.
Sandra-
In "Steal This Style" I tried to capture some the different ways accessories can define an outfit. Why one accessory is great and another may be too common, too cute, dated, overdone, contributes to a "senior" effect, or cheap looking-- is difficult to describe verbally. That's why I tried to photograph examples on both sides of the track--as well as the special accessories section which was just a tip of "the iceberg" of the many beautiful items available to us. I love classic jewelry that includes beautiful pearls, diamonds (used simply and sparingly), gold jewelry that looks ancient (Temple St Clair, and Judith Locke), Silver and inlaid work from Scotland, horn and ivory jewelry (no longer legal--but can be found in antique stores and in Italian fine jewelry shops), coral neclaces, and so much more.These are always in style. Always in style too are great Morroccan cuffs,old Mexican jewelry, beaded African bracelets, Native American Pawn and great artisan jewelry, and other intrinsically beautiful works of native craft. Eastern Indian18 Karat gold jewelry is enjoying popularity, is expensive--and is something I'll always love to look at (if not own).
Scarves need to be made of terrific fabrication (high quality pure silk, soft cashmere, fine linen or blended with wool or cotton ), have a wonderful coloration that flatters your face, and work with the outfit of course. There are so many around. I love winding and twisting them around the neck--but it's got to be the right choice. Only very young women can afford the hippie-like effect of a cheap scarf. Hermes, Gucci, Etro, Bruno Cucinelli, Max Mara, Jil Sander are amongst some that have investment scarves and shawls. They are worth the expense as they can "make" your outfit.
Sandra---I would have to view your jewelry and scarves to see if they are worthwhile. You are right that at times one simple piece--like a fantastic silver cuff--can be all you need. A wonderful big silver or gold watch may be all you need. It all depends on the outfit.
The designers of Marni, Prada and Vera Wang are responsible for the artful trend of bold jewelry using plastics, fabrics, glass and metals. Their work is always right-on.
J Crew (and Kate Spade) has given a nod to the work of Mirriam Haskell, David Webb, Chanel, Hermes and put their own spin on it--with incredible results-- at great prices.
It's important for boomers to familiarize themselves with all that's out there. It's also important to know that stacking a bunch of silver bracelets (bangles, chains) or beaded bracelets on one wrist may look amazing . One of the main problems for most women is defining and selecting the right pieces--but then not over doing it.
In past posts you've seen some scarves and shawls I love. Below are a few interesting pieces (none from the "classic" category) artful necklaces, earrings and a bracelet using interesting materials that can make a singular statement-- and stay modern for the long haul.
...says a recent NY Times article, "Appreciating Your Value as You Age". It begins with the very same thoughts I began "Forever Cool" --the fact that age catches up with all of us. In their new book "Face It", Dr Vivian Diller and Dr Jill Muir-Sukenick, ask "Should women simply grow old naturally, since their looks don't define them, or should they fight the signs of aging since beauty and youth are their currency and power?"
"This can-do age of aesthetics is particularly stressfull because the playing field is no longer equal." Our mothers looked at their peers who had just as many wrinkles--and derived comfort from being "all in the same boat". Today we speak and behave in conflicting ways. We ridicule too-obvious cosmetic surgery,and anoint celebs as courageous for growing old naturally (Meryl Streep, Helen Mirren). "We like to imagine they are somehow inoculated against self-doubt." Yet many, for ourselves, play with the rules we see as reality. That means giving in to the scalpel--or at best trying as many less invasive procedures as they are conceived by cosmetic/drug companies, and eager dermotologists and plastic surgeons. It is an huge industry that is founded, and relies on, insecurity.
Ideally, I believe--women (and men) should look at their personal style to be the true basis for their more youthful appearance. Lately, it's the beautifully gray or white tressed woman that I notice--especially if she's got great style. The wrinkles are natural and an interesting "ying" to the "yang" of a youthfully modernly styled woman. Therein should lie the effort (an attainable and healthy one!). It needn't be the confict or great dilemma as posed.
I like to digest my impressions--so I wait a day before giving opinions. So here goes (and incidentally I saw improvements over the previous award shows earlier this year, on which I generally commented in my contribution to The Style Glossy)--
Best dressed ladies: The winner-Demi Moore was perfection and absolutely gorgeous in the most amazing nude colored Atelier Versace gown. Runner-ups include Cameron Diaz (and at last her hairdresser did right by her!) wore Oscar de la Renta--and it was a refreshing surprise from her more body hugging choices of the past; Diane Kruger wore Chanel as it should be worn, and I also liked Carey Mulligan's high fashion plunge--a successful one I felt--in Prada.
Alec Baldwin's tux fit his wider girth (compare him to his earlier movies and photos) perfectly. No pulls, and no bagging. His tie met his collar without the loosening gap so many men are not aware of. It was a quality tux--and his look was classic. Jeff Bridges (I think he's liking his hair long and bearded look--as I do!), and consistently Colin Firth also represented the male attendees really well.
The photo of Jeff embracing his beautiful wife shows her in a pair of gorgeous turqouise earrings that were stunning on her-- and were the perfect touch, enlivening a lovely black dress.
The talented and obviously beautiful too, Katherine Bigelow accepted her awards in a gown that I believe was an, "OK I need something to wear" choice. The creases at her hips revealed fabric of poor quality. This is not a woman (also like Meryl Streep) who dwells on the trappings of feminine allure. I think perhaps because they are both confident in some other important way--or possess a certain conservatism (only her phsychologist knows for sure!).
Barbara Striesand --forever faithful to lacy clothing--managed to look too dowdy with the jacket layering to obviously cover her midriff.
Oprah, looked really lovely (looking slimmer!) in her navy Carolina Herrera dress.
The Academy Awards were on last night and I hope you were watching. The award for costume design was once again given to the very deserving Sandy Powell, one of my all time favorites. Sandy is capable of doing great work in period as well as modern (how we dress today) design. Interestingly in her brief acceptance speech she noted that once again she received her award for "The Young Victoria"--a period piece--but wished the academy would reward contemporary work at times. She said it's equally difficult --and I so agree! Predictably I too knew the award would go to a period design feature or--I'd hoped--perhaps something very imaginative like Avatar.
Avatar certainly has been either very timely for "ethnic" looks on this summer's runway collections or served as inspiration. Jean Paul Gaultier was feeling an "Avatar" moment way back in January. Just a month after the release of the James Cameron blockbuster, he injected strains of its Edenic imagery into his couture collection.
The NY Times article I'm quoting proceeded- "Nor did the editors of Vogue waste time paying homage to that movie's blue-skinned tribes. A 10-page fashion feature in its March issue is photographed in a mossy forest, the models stamped with fierce tattoos. "Avatar," prompts the accompanying text. "You can't miss the sci-fi angle."
Few films in recent memory have had such a vivid and instantaneous impact on the world of style. So it seems perverse that last month, when the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences announced the nominees for best costume design, Mayes C. Rubeo and Deborah Lynn Scott's luridly exotic designs for the film were not in the running. Come Sunday, when Oscars are bestowed, the award will go to one in a lineup of more reliably conventional period fare, films that include "Bright Star," "Nine" and "Coco Before Chanel."
In earlier eras, such a slight would have stung. Film and fashion, after all, once enjoyed a relationship so intertwined as to border on incestuous. Today, among style-world insiders at least, the insult scarcely registers. Clearly a long and fabled love affair has lost its heat.
The NYTimes Styles article "Film and Fashion:Just Friends" makes the case that once upon a time (think "Annie Hall, Bonnie and Clyde, Out of Africa, Saturday Night Fever, and "Love Story") films most certainly did affect personal style. But several experts like Simon Doonan claim that it's become less so than ever.
In both my books I noted that movies can be a guide for great style (color, form, texture), not necessarily for fashion itself (fashion for fashion's sake) but for honing one's taste through observation. Movies also have cues as to what to avoid. Of course people have to notice all this --or it goes right by--just like life itself.
I'm a big believer in simplicity and white cotton blouses should be a staple in your wardrobe. I found these shirts and blouses at Neiman Marcus. Each one is a bit different --from the very simplest to very highly styled. They look great as shown -- minimilist looks with no jewelry. Don't be afraid of wearing no jewely--it's always modern and sometimes really refreshing.
As women age they tend to over-accessorize.These looks say "here I am--pure and simple!".
All these combos can easily highlight great shoes and bags and not be compromised.I'd keep it in the black/white palette.
Well oddly enough lots of gals don't know they can have it all--particularly when it comes to accessories. Here are just 2 of many candidates (the loafers come in black patent as well--ultra practical!).
Bottega was one of my favorite late 70's early eighties lines-- and the one day I began to think of it as "lady-like" and therefore no longer my hunting grounds.
But lately all that has changed with a reinvented look to their signature woven bags and now also great shoes (lots of platforms for a long legged look) that have a look of "raffia" and worked in gorgeous color schemes. Even the necklaces have an inventive, arty spin that makes me once again--a huge fan. The clothes harken to other eras but the simplicity of the design, and the emphasis on texture and color is no less than --gorgeous.
Talent or brilliiance alone does not make for success or a success make.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Such is the lesson in the sad news of Alexander McQueen's suicide. He was a talented--extremely imaginative designer. There are many talented and creative people who were never taken under the wing of the style icon Isabella Blow (who also committed suicide), as he so fortunately was--but would have loved it. Luck, timing and opportunity all are essential to success but emotional health and equilibrium seems as important to be able to enjoy what you've been given.
